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Yasuo Hayakawa, 50, fillets a bonito at Tokyo’s Ota Market shortly after the morning auction wrapped up. The bonito has distinctive stripes along its side, marks from the gods bending down and put them in the water, Hayakawa said. Hayakawa has been a fishmonger for almost 30 years. He said his most popular sellers in the summer are aji -- mackerel -- and kisu, a whiting popular for tempura. His favorite fish in the market? Zenbu, he said, meaning he loves them all.


Photos and text by Parker Seibold

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